The last of my 4 part series is practice technique. I have found diagrams from Tamiya and HPI; And 2 videos, 1 from Yokomo, and the other from HPI on the basic techniques for practicing. 
"The figure eight is perfect for mastering the mixture of straights and turns that drift driving entails. Practice as often as you can, perfecting the timing of when to cut steering and the best throttle position for maintaining drift. When you're ready, practice high speed oval course driving and wild parking lot drift!" - Tamiya
Tamiya Drift Racing Techniques
Photo credit: Tamiya
  1. Straight Driving: Maintain consistent throttle control. Sudden changes can throw the machine out of balance.
  2. Entering Turns: Release throttle for an instant, transferring force to the front of car while cutting the steering wheel.
  3. Beginning Drift: As rear starts to slide, counter-steer to prevent spinning out. Use throttle to maintain drift posture.
  4. Turning: Use throttle and steering to control turning radius. Start returning controls to neutral position as you near exit of turn.
  5. Exiting Turn: Return controls to neutral position, after car's position has stabilized, accelerate gradually.
Source: Tamiya


                  HPI Drifting Techniques
 Here is a "how to" r/c drift guide from HPI Europe.

Level 1: Practice initiating a drift. The more you accelerate, the more stable the car will be. Acceleration -> tail sliding -> counter steer. Start counter steering back to neutral upon acceleration. Keep practicing to perform this smoothly.
Picture
Car setting is standard diff front and rear with suspension setting same as grip driving.

Level 2: Drifting around a corner. Start drifting by accelerating right after braking. Keep drifting by controlling the acceleration. Use drift swings to smoothly drive through a sequence of curves. Practice to learn smooth acceleration and steering techniques.

Level 3: High performance drifting. To create a big drift angle, brake before entering the corner and control the throttle to pass the clipping point with a big angle. For an electric powered car, use a front one-way for rear braking to quickly change the direction and accelerate. Try to keep the car from spinning. Be careful with the throttle when using a front differential or exiting the corner.
Picture
For smooth weight shift: 20% softer suspension setting than grip driving.

Level 4: Driving with other cars: Twing Drift. Try to maintain your own driving style without being affected by other cars. Use acceleration and braking to maintain the drift angle.
Picture
Focus on drift angle, use a front one-way and rear diff with hard grease.

Let's have fun driving sideways!

These diagrams can be found at RCdriftcars.com.
 
What is 50/50 drifting?
    50/50 is the conventional way of drifting. 50-50 is distributing power evenly between the front and rear wheels. Any electric AWD RC touring car with drift wheels can drift 50/50.

What is Counter-Steer drifting?
    Refers to over driving the rear wheels so the car is fighting to stay straight no matter if the front wheels are turned or not. It tends to look more realistic as it's comparable to having more power at the rear wheels than the front.

Which chassis is best for Drifting?  Shaft or Belt driven?
    There are 2 main ways to transfer power from your electric RC cars motor to the wheels, Belt driven and shaft driven. Which is better is a personal choice, but I will attempt to give you a few pros and cons between the 2 types.
     SHAFT DRIVEN:
        "In principle a shaft-driven 4WD RC car chassis usually transmits power to both axles via a main drive shaft that runs along the center line of the chassis. The power movement is as follows: motor to pinion gear -> pinion to spur gear -> spur gear to center drive shaft ->center drive shaft meshes to the front and rear differentials via conical gear that is attached to the gear differential."
    Pros: Direct Torque means no power loss. 
            Throttle response is faster
            Less drag
            Shaft driven helps lower center of gravity slighty.

    Cons: Shaft is slighty heavier. - (not a big factor in drifting)
           Minimal Counter steer setting options.  
           Complete breakdown to make minor drivtrain repairs.
 

    BELT DRIVEN:
       "In principle a belt-driven 4WD RC car chassis usually transmits power to both axles via 1 -3 drive belts that run along the center line of the chassis. The power movement is as follows: motor to pinion gear -> pinion to spur gear -> spur gear to pulleys attached to it ->center pulley has 2 belts rotating around it -> each belt transmits power to the front and rear differentials via belt pulley that is part of the differential" 
    Pros: Belt is quieter.
            Drivetrain mainentance is easier.
           More available options while setting up Counter Steer.
 

    Cons: Belts stretch in time.
            Slight lag in acceleration.

Which Differential is better? Ball, or One-way?
    I explained in the Glossary what a ball diff. and One-Way differential are. Here I will explain pros and cons of both.
    
One-Way:
      Pros: Advantage for extremely complex technical tracks.
           Driver correction is made easier with a One-Way.
           Front tires have maximun grip during corners and turns making for faster corner acceleration plus consistent steering
      Cons: Disables any braking action in the front end of the car

    
Ball Diff.:
      Pros: Smoother handling, better braking, and more control in turns
           More Durable
           Ball diff delivers true variability to both front wheels.
      Cons: Tends to slip.
           Suffers from understeer.
What is a Brushless system?
    
"A brushless motor controller or brushless ESC (Electronic Speed Control) is used to vary the speed of a brushless motor. These function as an interface between the motor and the battery. Controlled by the throttle signal from an RC receiver, the brushless ESC provides variable power to the motor allowing proportional speed adjustments. Unlike a brushed motor, power cannot be directly applied to a brushless motor. Instead, the speed control intelligently powers each phase of a brushless motor in sequence, causing it to rotate. Brushless speed controls have three motor wires, allowing them to connect to standard three phase brushless motors"

What is Camber?
    Camber angle is the angle between the vertical axis of the wheel and the vertical axis of the vehicle when viewed from the front or rear. There are three possible camber types, positive, neutral, and negative camber.
If the top of the wheel leans into the center of the car you have negative camber. If the wheel is vertical you have neutral or no camber and if the wheel leans out you have positive camber.
If you were to drive your RC car round a fast right-hand corner, the body rolls to the left. This reaction also happens to the wheel, if there is no camber on the wheels the top of the left wheels will lean out and you will end up running on the outside tire. To counteract this you would need to put negative camber on the wheels. This allows the wheel to tip over in corners but still maintains full surface contact on the track giving maximum grip on corners. Camber is adjusted by lengthening or shortening the top wishbone.

What size offset wheel for the “hellaflush” look?
    Yokomo, Tamiya and ABC shells are 190mm in length. HPI are usually 200mm with the exception to the Trueno and Levin shell, which are also available in a 190mm size. There are other companies that offer shells slighty smaller than 200mm shells. (Topline, Drift Stage D-Like, Pandora RC and RC-ART) to name a few. 
    Most Yokomo and Tamiya shells can us up to a 6mm offset. Some camber adjustments may be needed. HPI shells can use a 6mm offset up to a 12mm offset. Shells that have a wider body (ie: HPI Subaru Impreza) can use up to a 12mm offset for the rear with camber adjustment). 
    If you have any doubts, dont be afraid to ask. There is no combination (shell/wheel offset) that hasnt been done yet. Someone will have the answer. 



Have to thank DRCcentral, ThinkRC, RCTech, RC gawkers and   RC Legends for helping assist with some of the answers.
 

Here is part 2 of my "sticky" series. "The Glossary". These are some terms you will be hearing and using once entered into the hobby of RC drifting. These are not the only words you will hear, but this is a good starting point................


glossary after the bump.

 
Here is the first of my 4 part drifting 101 "sticky" series.
Getting Started....
Rc drifting needs 2 major components: An electric powered 4WD based radio controlled car and drift tires. 
  Any on-road touring car will work as a beginner drift chassis. The only special piece of equipment needed are drift tires. Drift tires are designed to give RC cars minimal but controllable traction at high motor revolutions. They are made out of PVC, ABS, and PPR compound. Each compound has different slip/grip characteristics. HPI T-drfts are the most common and can be found at local hobby stores and online stores.
Now that you have the bare basics. Get out there and.....
                "KEEP IT SLIDEWAYS"
 
In the upcoming days I will be working on a few "sticky" type articles that you will be able to look back to for guidance at any time.  By clicking on the "Drifting 101" located at the right of this page you will be taken to 4 basic topics: "Getting Started", a "Glossary", "FAQ's" and "Practice Techniques".
Getting Started - is a basic rundown of what is needed to get you started in Rc drifting.
The Glossary - are drift terms that you should familiarize yourself with.
FAQ's - Basic questions and answers that may be asked by beginners of the hobby.
Practice Techniques - Basic drills you can use to improve your skills.